exhaust manifold

I can't find anywhere about the limits of a stock 2g exhaust manifold. The reason I ask is because I was wondering if I was shooting myself in the.Our old GC 95' had some trouble getting its smog last month. So, after some investigation the Smog-Dude reported that there was a hole in the exhaust manifold somewhere, causing exhaust to exit before.This is stock but welded up for dual cooling. 25 shipped.ports appear to have a 6.1 sized window on the intake side, as well as a 6.1 style D shape on the exhaust. a quick comparisson with a 6.1 exhaust manifold looks like it was nearly a perfect match. tappets: i wouldnt normally cover this, ...I'm planing to remove the whole exhaust system to take a look and see if it can be cleaned off a little for better flow, and to paint it. Any one here.I recently had the distinct pleasure of needing to remove a broken exhaust manifold stud from an aluminum cylinder head on my drag racing car, even when using a torque wrench graduated in inch/lbs. As you may well know, there are only 3 ...That's about it. Have the usual crack in my exhaust header. Debating doing it myself or having a mechanic do it for me. How much would you think a mechanic.Will a old exhaust manifold gasket cause bad smell on the exhaust?I Smell to much gas.And before two days when i put my 3 downpipe and cat back was.This past weekend I took my 31 model 60 out and developed a crack in the exhaust manifold. By the time I arrived home I noticed the crack went completely around. My first.Would this be a blown Head gasket?? I dont have any of the orther tools for a leak down test or anything like that, but besides the coolant everything else seems fine. Except for lifter tick, and missing bolt on exhaust manifold. ...
I have a 95 Chevrolet Silverado with a 5.7L engine. I took the exhaust manifold off and the holes don't line up. How can I make it to where I can get the manifold back on?


I have a 350 V8 that has a heat riser on the exhaust. I need to replace the exhaust manifold but the bolts are too short on the new manifold so was wanting to know if it was necessary to replace the heat riser when I put the new manifold in or can I leave the riser out. Will it be detrimental?


just got a 1998 buick regal 3.8 supercharge it had a cyl 1 misfire got that fixed and it still runs like shit. 2day was running it and the exhaust manifolds got glowing red could that be a bad egr or clogged cat. converter? it runs smooth but when giving it gas the performance is shitty


Engine Performance problem
1991 Toyota Pickup 4 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual 47000 miles

I have a 91' toyota pickup, I have no power when its being driven in 2nd or 3rd gear, my exhaust manifold will start glowing red, what do I need to do to fix it?


ok 99 Nissan Maxima, auto, 3.0 v-6. 143k, has been skipping for along time now at first only noticeable at stop signs/lights in gear, so i would put in neutral and it would stop. Year or so ago..I replaced spark plugs with OE Platinum NGKS skipping seemed to go away for a few months. Then came back :(

Brought it back to shop and they said my rear valve cover gasket was leaking and that could possibly be causing the the plugs to foul or something? Well at the time i didn't have the money to fix so just let it go for months.

This past July i took it in for state inspection and apparently that valve cover gasket leak was dripping oil onto my exhaust manifold in which could create a fire so in order to get sticker needed it replaced! So had them do the job and change some other gaskets while they were in there too. Got the car back the next day still skipping. They suggested i change the plugs again at that time too but I just didn't have the extra money.

Well needless to say i drove it for 1 day after the gasket/state inspection got done and it was smoking under hood so I called the garage up that did the work and they said most likely it was oil still burning off from the gasket replacement..So i just went with it and continued driving. Day 2 BAM!!! I was getting waved over by a car in front of me driving telling me to pull over and my car was on fire!!!!!! I pulled over fire department came et etc..fire was under car..turned out to be i blew my transmission (no other damage from fire)! BUT Never had any trans problem up until like 5 minutes before i was being told my car was on fire and the problem I noticed before hand was when taking off from stop sign car was very very hesitant...like didn't want to move. but did, then 2 miles down the road fire happened. would've started before i don't know. Had towed back to same shop that had been working on it and they said my trans fluid must have been low and something inside got dry and let loose and blew a hole through transmission..so replaced trans with one from salvage yard last month 105k. So odd because like i said i had no trans issues ever just this SKIP at idle in gear at stops. So just to be extra safe I went ahead replaced spark plugs and all coils (6) coil on plug..$$FORTUNE..Also replaced fuel filter..

OK now what the heck it is still SKIPPING!!!! This skip is ONLY when at operating temperature. When cold runs great and no skip! full power! Also have noticed when taking off from stop car is a little hesitant until it hits that second gear..and honestly the longer the drive the worse the skipping and hesitation gets when taking off from stops..I don't get it???? Even been running 92 octane gas..

I have sunk so much money into this car I can't afford to be paying more shops to not figure this out. I am looking here and hoping for some ideas on what this could be im at my wits end. PLEASE HELP!!! SORRY SO LONG but figured a lot of detail would be best!
Check Engine Light is NOT on..
This car does not have spark plug wires! Its COIL on PLUG only!


i am looking for performance parts for my polo i don't mean tacky rubbish out of halfords and motorworld i mean like
camshafts,
cams,
inlet manifolds,
exhaust systems,
suspension kits

because i typed them in many search engine and all they comes up with is webs site with cheesy chrome gear knobs which is not what im looking for


My 1997 Camaro Convertible RS v6 3800 series II engine seems to be really loud. I think it might be an exhaust flange leak. Because when working on it, I had broken one of the two bolts holding the exhaust flange to the ex manifold (on both flanges, I had broken one bolt off each). So now the exhaust flanges are being held up by one bolt on each manifold instead of two.

I am wondering if that could cause an irregularly loud engine, and a significant loss in power and gas mileage.

P.S. What I was working on is removing one of the cyl heads to take it to the machine shop and then re-installing it. This had involved of course taking out the ex manifold. If that makes a difference


READ CAREFULLY! IT'S TRICKY!

1975 Plymouth Duster 5.9 360 4bbl

Recently, this car has had a head gasket replacement about 4 weeks ago. She ran fine and everything (high revs, small drives). Until tonight where I started her the first time today she started leaking antifreeze through the exhaust manifolds right away! Antifreeze kept spewing out of the manifold to the exhaust clamp. *(no leaks from the manifold to the block).

I thought the head gasket blew again or a cracked head. Well, there is no water in the oil, the oil is fine. The temp is normal.

*TRICKY PART*
Started her again about 10 mins later, NO LEAKS! Nothing! No white smoke from the exhaust and she ran fine. I only let her stay at idle for 2 min.

WHAT IN THE HELL HAPPENED? I am so confused.
Remember, she was a cold block and first time started it, it was leaking. So it doesn't need to warm up if she cracked or blew a gasket running cold.


and still have back pressure and be sound legal. i need a cheap muffler and i need 2 of them. reall cheap sbc 350 crate engine 1972 k20 chevy lifted 4x4. wanting to run them infront of the trasfercase... possible. trucks straight pipe and i keep getting tickets. whats the cheapest way to quiet it down


are they anygood are they a true single chamber. whats the difference and why are they so cheap. 14.99 they have cherry bomb name on them.. and can i run the like 3 foot away from the exhaust manifold without getting anything hot? and still be legal with sound regulations.. no smog. 72 k20 chevy truck


hi i brought my vectra (petrol 1.8 16v) in july and i love it. i knew it had problems when i brought it and thats how i got it cause it was cheap. the thing is now i have the advisory for mot and not sure if it is worth putting it through, she is now on 139,345 miles and last mot was 132,079 so put a few on. heres the advisory :::



Advisory Notice issued
Front Brake disc(s) slightly worn (3.5.1h)
Rear Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1f)
Nearside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
Centre Exhaust has part of the system slightly deteriorated (7.1.1a)
Rear Exhaust has part of the system slightly deteriorated (7.1.1a)
Manifold Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2a)
Nearside Front Upper Anti-roll bar linkage has slight play in a ball joint (2.4.G.3)
Oil leak
O/S/F and N/S/F anti-rollbar upper gaiters split
O/S/F indicator lense missing - not showing white light
Surface corrosion to underbody panels - may require further attention
Accident damage to n/s/r sill and door



the oil leak is not yet major as it is not actually leaking on to the road not too sure where it is though. the accident damage to the door and sill is going to be replaced by new. also was planning on getting a new exhaust (full system) anyway. i would just like a rough idea of wether i should bother moting or scrapping
my beloved vixie lol.

thanks x


Its a heavily modded 05 SRT-4 with 55000 miles. Its in really good condition. I maintain it very well. Ive invested over $12000 in it over the years, and thats beyond the purchase price. I know I wont get it back, but what should I sell it for. Ive seen them go for 14000-16000 with light mods. Let me know what you think.

Some of the mods are:

Electronic Metering and Programming:
-Apexi SAFC II Neo Fuel Controller
-Aeroforce Technology Interceptor Scan Gauge
-AUTOMETER Digital WIDEBAND AIR FUEL RATIO GAUGE
-Autometer ProComp Ultra-Lite 30lb/30hg Boost Gauge
-GReddy Full Auto Turbo Timer

Drivetrain:
-Mopar Performance Short Throw Shifter
-Dana Race CV Axles
-ACT 4-Puck Street/Strip clutch
-Lightweight Flywheel
-AGP Solid Transmission Mount

Engine:
-Forged Internals
-AGP BIG 50 Trim Turbo:
Specs:
- AGP Cast T04E housing 3" inlet 2" outlet
- AGP 50 trim compressor wheel 50lb/min
- T31 4 bolt outlet turbine housing .63 A/F Ratios
-AGP T3 Log-Style Exhaust Manifold
-AGP Big Turbo SS O2 Housing
-AGP SS Dump Tube
-AGP RACE Front Mount Intercooler
-AGP Cool Side piping
-Turbonetics Evolution Wastegate
-Turbonetics Manual Boost Controller
-HKS SSQ blow off valve
-AGP a�?Dog Bonea�� Motor Mounts
-AGP 3-Bar Map Sensor
-Ported Intake Manifold
-Iceman 70MM Throttle Body
-Walboro 255lph Fuel Pump
-750cc FIC Fuel Injector Clinic Injectors
-s3 high flow fuel rail
-s3 fuel pressure regulator
-THERMAL R&D 3" Turbo Back Exhaust w/ Hi-Flow Cat. & no Res.
-Injen Performance Intake
-MPX Underdrive Pulley
-Aluminum Oil Catch Can
-Mopar 10mm Plug Wires
-MSD Ignition
-NGK Iridium Spark Plugs

Misc.:
-8000K PHILIPS ULTRA SLIM ULTINON Bi-Xenon HID headlights (lowbeams and highbeams)
-10000K PHILIPS ULTRA SLIM ULTINON HID foglights
-Dodge Viper Front Seats
-Ceramic brake pads and drilled/slotted rotors
-S-Style Eyelid overlays professionally painted black
-Windows professionally tinted 5%

I recently paid it off. What should I sell it for? How much should I expect to get out of it? The car has been adult driven always and never beat on. Please be specific and list reasons for your answers. Thanks!
Oh and it also has a new Clarion 7 inch touch screen multimedia center (Single Din). Nav, ipod, cd, mp3, dvd, dvdr, ect...


The front bolt to the exhaust manifold has come out because the bolt hole was stripped out. The exhaust manifold leaks and is noisy. How can i rethread the hole in the engine block so it will hold a bolt to keep the exhaust manifold from leaking??


ok how much would it cost to have a shop put true duels from my manifold's to the rear tires like side pipe, coming wright otu behind the doors, what can i be looking to pay, for 2 1/2'' exhuast, and how much just to keep it the stock exhaust size


Just finished up installing my cylinder head and intake manifold as well as fuel rail on my 1993 Toyota Camry 2.2L. Installed the intake camshaft as well. I was ready to install the exhaust camshaft, but read online about the service bolt as well as in the manual, but the manual never stated why it was necessary. After further reading online it stated that the service bolt prevents the gears from unwinding and causing the cam to be out of time when removed. When I removed the camshafts I never placed a service bolt in the exhaust camshaft (should have now!). I never noticed the cam unwinding when I removed it from the cylinder head. I had the cylinder head and both cams to a machine shop for reconditioning. After carefully looking at the exhaust cam now I notice the do line up, but there is hole and something line a pin that are a off a bit out of alignment. Does the pin and hole have to line up? Looks like it would fit if the one gear was turned about 1/8 turn or so.
Wondering if anyone here has and answer to this.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


i have a 2000 acura integra gsr stock.
stock=170hp
i want to try and break 250 before putting a turbo..
any good ideas to help me? so far i got this....opionions will be very appreciated.

Exhaust- Apexi World Sport full catback exhaust
Headers- Megan Racing Headers
Cold Air Intake- AEM Cold Air Intake V2
Intake Manifold- Skunk 2
Exhaust- Apexi World Sport full catback exhaust


This is an 01 taurus 3.0. it is a single cam not a dohc...... rough cold idle and surges when put in gear hesitation when at steady speed what could be wrong? has new fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs and wires, egr senser and egr valve. The check engine light was on and the code referd to low egr flow. I have pulled the neg cable after replacing the senser and valve and the light has not come back on yet. The car is still running the same after all this work. There is also alot or ticking coming from the exhaust manifold(i think) the loudest is in the back of the engine under or around the intake. i hope some one may have some answers. i bought this car and had it a week a them all this started happening. Please help!! Thanks!!


my z24 cavilier doesnt have a cadilliac converter on it why does the pipe that comes off the manifold get red hot?


the pipe that comes off the exhaust manifold get red on my z24 cavilier?


im trying to buy a new engine for my t-maxx 2.5 but it seems as if i have many questions so i can get the right engine. im looking at the os tz .18,i ve heard it fits on the 2.5 truck but ive also heard it doesnt so im not sure which one too belive. can i use the same flywheel and clutch set up? is there an easy start for the engine? how easy is it to put in a new exhaust manifold?? and will i have to modify the body at all? will the engine have too much power? im sorry this is alot of questions but please help with any suggestions


I had a small puddle of oil in the indentation on the manifold the other day (right underneath the carb on the passenger side). And oil has leaked on both sides of the engine block, down to the spark plugs. I was told by someone on here that the valve cover gaskets need to be replaced. I also have a crack in the driver side exhaust manifold which I have had since I had the truck. Now Ia��m wondering if it is still valve cover gaskets since I found oil in the manifold. I cleaned around the edge of the manifold and I found old silicone between the manifold and engine.
I also have a pretty bad power steering leak, but ita��s leaking mostly on the curb. So I am not sure of the exact location of the leak. I checked around the power steering box and I cana��t find anything.
I understand it is difficult to answer mechanical questions over the internet, but I would really appreciate someone with some know-how to give me their input on this. And how much labor Ia��m looking at.
Thanks in advance for taking the time to read these run-on questions. I greatly appreciate all relevant help.

305 V8
4 barrel carb
dual exhaust


I had a small puddle of oil in the indentation on the manifold the other day (right underneath the carb on the passenger side). And oil has leaked on both sides of the engine block, down to the spark plugs. I was told by someone on here that the valve cover gaskets need to be replaced. I also have a crack in the driver side exhaust manifold which I have had since I had the truck. Now Ia��m wondering if it is still valve cover gaskets since I found oil in the manifold. I cleaned around the edge of the manifold and I found old silicone between the manifold and engine.
I also have a pretty bad power steering leak, but ita��s leaking mostly on the curb. So I am not sure of the exact location of the leak. I checked around the power steering box and I cana��t find anything.
I understand it is difficult to answer mechanical questions over the internet, but I would really appreciate someone with some know-how to give me their input on this. And how much labor Ia��m looking at.
Thanks in advance for taking the time to read these run-on questions. I greatly appreciate all relevant help.

305 V8
4 barrel carb
dual exhaust


The exhaust manifold is cracked, but I repaired it with JB weld and it seems to be holding.


I have a donut on it. My friend said I have to screw it up equally or one side would have a leak. I was wondering is that true? And also I can't see if its is equal. Is there a easy way to screw it up?


Not sure if its anything to worry about or not..but i was checking my valve cover gaskets and happen to look at the transmission and noticed a 4'' crack on it. Anything to be worried about? Its on the part between the exhaust manifold and air filter. 2003 3.8L monte carlo


Okay, I've got a 1996 Dodge Ram B5200 van, 5.2L V8. I pulled the Y-pipe off a 1994, and put it on my van.

It was a snug fit, but air is leaking where the y-pipe bolts to the manifolds. Quite a bit, too. What are my options? I don't believe there is a donut gasket available for these.


Today a friend of mine installed
a K&N cold air intake on my car
and he told me it has an LS6 manifold
and it headers.
my question is
with the K&N cold air kit, the headers, the LS6 manifold, and the loud mouth exhaust system.
approximately how much HP does my car make?
i keep on finding out new things on this car everday.


Will exhaust manifold from BMW E36 318is M44 1.9 fit 1995 E36 318is M42 1.8?
I am referring to RHD models only


i have a 2000 honda civic with a stock d16y7 motor i was wondering if it is possible to swap a b16a1 motor, i found someone with a b16a1 and it comes with engine, trasmission, ECU, Alternator, air conditioning, power steering pump, distributer, intake and exhaust manifolds, down pipe and starter... but what else would i need to do this swap do i need new wireing harness and will the d16y7 motor mounts fit on it this is my first time doing a swap please help


I think I'm gonna rebuild my Chevy 350 small black with these components. This will be a performance motor that will be driven on the street as well as raced at the strip. How much horsepower and torque do u estimate this would make? Also is there anything special I will have 2 accommodate for? Due to all the performance parts. Also what size carburetor would work best on this? I found a good deal on either a 650 or 750 cfm (i can't remember which) and was wondering if maybe 750 would be too large since it will be driven on the street.
Hastings or Seal Power Moly Rings
Federal Mogul flattop Hypereutectic Pistons
Clevite Rod Brgs
Clevite Main Brgs
Clevite Cam Brgs
Melling Hi Volume Oil Pump
Crane Energizer Cam and Lifter Kit: 2000-5000 RPM 272/272 Adv Dur, 216/216 Dur @ .50, .454/.454 Lift 110 Lobe Separation
Cloyes True Roller Timing Components
Pioneer Steel Block Plugs
Felpro Gaskets
Scat Crankshaft (New) (Stock style)
Aftermarket cylinder heads:
Intake Port Volume
190cc
Combustion Chamber
64cc
Intake Valve Size
2.02"
Exhaust Valve Size
1.60"
Valve Stem Dia.
11/32"
Intake Port Size
1.14" W x 2.10" T
Exhaust Port Size
1.4" W x 1.4" T
Max Spring Dia.
1.550"
Exhaust Crossover
No
Plug
Angle
Weight (per head - bare)
20 lbs.
Valve Spring Dia.
1.46" dual
Aftermarket Intake manifold:
Dual plane
Intake Port Dimensions: 1.90"x1.19"
Aftermarket Headers and exhaust will be Flowmaster


should i put headers or manifold on my medium built 350 i was told header because you will get a increase in horsepower im running manifolds now and come to find out there pontiac manifolds on my chevy motor and they dont hook up right and there leaking bad with 2 1/2" y exhaust stock for my firebird i know this is stupids guy but i bought it like that so thanks for the help


Hello, is there something that I could safely spray onto the area where the headers and engine meet that would show I had a leak

like would it suck the air in, idle change, etc....

also what could be used safely without damaging anything?


And exhaust manifold studs broken off, rusted through brake lines, catches on fire, etc. Complain to Consumer Affairs & to National Highway Transportation & Safety Administration , ( NHTSA). I know there are alot of you out there.


I know that this is going to sound kind of dumb. I just got an exhaust manifold gasket for my 95 Silverado with a 5.7. It came with 6 gaskets. 3 pairs. One side is a metal foil looking side and the other looks like regular gasket material. Which sides goes where?


I bought a used car about a week and a half ago and it has a crack in the exhaust manifold and have been told that it will not be able to pass smog if i got it checked. I also heard that a dealer cannot sale you a car if it cannot pass smog and that I am legally able to get a refund. Is this true?


the motor goes well, its done 80,000 mls, no smoke, been told it can be the probe {by Vauxall garage] or cat faulty{thats 3mths old at quick fit} vauxall said probe is rusted in exhaust manifold so its capput, quoted A?4oo with no guarantee, help. Pte.


I have a rattle in my car engine when i do a cold start
I have tried listening to where is comes from and it sounds like it is coming from the exhaust manifold area.

here are my car details
Make: MITSUBISHI
Model: MIRAGE
Year: 1992
CC rating: 1,298
Fuel type: Petrol
Power: 59kW (yes i know, its not much, but i got the car for free)
I will take a picture of my engine and post the link soon


Hi all, i have a 91 3rd gen maxima and of course the exhaust is all rusted out at the back of the engine. Now, my main question is as per the title, but also how does it work? Is it the rear exhaust manifold that leads to the flexpipe? Im probably way off with my understanding of this, so if anybody can just elaborate briefly how entire exhausts work i'd appreciate that also. Thank you for your time


Im not saying my brother is correct or wrong, but he says my 92 LT! corvette has egr , and i said no it doesn't it has air. Then he told me he see's it on the exhaust manifolds. I believe its air. I went to look for headers, and for the 91 L98 engine, it has egr and air, and the 92 has just air?


i have a 1989 ford f-250 4x4 extended cab and its motor family is the windsor make. what in the hell would cause both right and left manifolds to completely crack all the way around. if i took them off i would have 4 pieces... never seen before in cast iron manifolds know anyone who has a set? thanks..


Okay, exhaust manifold bolts have been broken off in the cylinder head. I know they havet to be drilled out maybe even retapped. It's in a 95 Silverado and it's a 350. Should I take the head off or try and do it while it's still on the motor?


i have a 454 that i'm putting in my 87 camaro that will not fit because the truck exhaust manifolds are to wide. what do i need to get manifolds off of so they will fit. i need something closer to the block something that dumps straight down


ok so...

I was in the process of replacing the exhaust donuts on my 1972 Ford F250 (390 big block), and i had wrestled with them for a while and my dad said "should we just take it to the muffler shop?"

normally i would say no way, because it's my truck and i wanna do the work on it. but for some reason i thought "hey, we get to drive it with no exhaust past the manifolds, it'll be loud as hell." so we went to the damn mechanic, and he got it all fixed up then diagnosed more problems and all that mechanic stuff...

And then, we were driving it home, and all of a sudden it kept cutting out on us. we've owned it for two months and we drove it maybe 5-6 times. it ran perfect everytime. then we were on a road and my dad kinda slowed down and then he put it back in 3rd. it revved up kinda high and then it cut out some more. we stopped at whataburger. when we got back on the highway, we got up to about 50 and the engine started stalling out again. my dad took off the gas and about 3-4 seconds later it backfired big time. It put out soo much smoke and we pulled off on the side of the road for a minute. when we started it up it was smoking for a second, it was a dark brown color of smoke. my dad held it at like 1500 rpms, since it may have been flooded or something. then we continued home and in the next 2 miles or so it cut out at least 4-5 times.

I definitely won't be going to a mechanic again. but anybody know what happened? i think when he down shifted it flooded, then it backfired and all that gas was in the exhaust pipe and lit up. Or maybe something blew up like an exhaust valve. maybe driving it with no exhaust past the manifold was a terrible idea. i dont know, i looked under the hood and didnt see any fresh oil or anything. As far as oil goes, we changed it recently, and before that it had all the oil left from only god knows how long.

Thanks in advance, you help would be greatly appreciated
BTW, im 15 and kinda knew to this stuff so i may or may have asked some dumb questions.


I just bought a 1968 Pontiac firebird 400. The car still has the orignial exhaust manifold. I am wanting to make the car sound good and wondering what kind of headers I should go with I am also going with a mild cam. I don't want the car to have an outrageous noise but something very noticeable. Also wondering whats a good muffler to use. I am going to be using the turn down exhaust. another question is to use x pipe or what. I am new to this car stuff and I am looking for the muscle car sound. any info will be appreciated! thanks


While taking the bolts out of my exhaust manifold to change the manifold gaskets I broke a few bolts off. I'm going to have to drill them out and retap them. How hard is this going to be and are there any tips you can give?


I was told my car needs a Donut Gasket.. something about it fell off the Exhaust Manifold or something. I have the 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais, 2.5L Tech4.

Is this the correct name of this part, that i go into the Auto Parts store and ask for? Some store's computers i like and some i avoid because the computer is confusing... but is it called a "Donut Gasket"?

Thanks


I need the exhaust manifold put back on, the Y-pipe connected, and a flange put on the exhaust pipe to connect it to the Y-pipe.
It's a Chevrolet T.B.I. 350. The exhaust manifold is on the driver's side.


Ok so I am looking for a 6 cylinder car. I have looked into the jetta/golf VR6, and I love the look, but their reviews are mostly negative and they seem to be pretty unreliable.

I have also looked into the honda civic, but I am 6"5, mostly in the legs, and I tried fitting in my friends 02 civic and it didn't work.

What I am looking for is a reliable 6 cylinder car that looks pretty sporty (coupe or 4 door I don't care), and that has a decent amount of room in it.

Modifications I plan on making:
Lower
Window tints
Manifold
Exhaust
Headers
and putting some subs in it.

So, with all that in mind, anyone have any suggestions on a car that fits the criteria above? My cash limit is roughly $10,000 canadian.


I have a truck that I had gotten and it needed a little work. It needed a seal in the motor and in the transmission fixed. Well, to do that they had to take off my Y-pipe because it was preventing the transmission from being dropped. They then preceded to CUT it off instead of unbolting it which means I have to get another Y-Pipe or sleeve it.

Then, for whatever reason they decided to take the exhaust manifold off of the drivers side. There was no reason for this to be done and in the process of taking it off they broke bolts off in my cylinder head and they can not get the exhaust manifold to fit back on. So the instructor said that he is going to have to drill out the old bolts and re bore the exhuast bolts.

I don't want them to do anything else to it as I feel they will probably just break something else as he was talking about prying on the exhaust manifold to get the bolts back in. They/he (instructor) and the students obviously are not capable of handling such a situation so WHAT CAN I DO ABOUT THIS?

I understand that it's a state Technical college but that doesn't mean that they can just tear my vehicle up and not have to pay to fix it, does it?

I am a student at the technical college in question. I am going for welding. I signed no such waiver saying that I would not hold them responsible if they broke anything. I asked if he could fix it and he said it wouldn't be a problem. I've since had to invest over $300 for parts that they have broken/lost/stolen.